It’s Me?

r/woahdude - Backwash wave at Seal Beach, CA

Years ago I was surfing Seal Beach, California on a big, Super Hollow day. (A day like the one in this video below.)

I took a beating out there. I literally got bounced off of the bottom. My neck could have been broken… I came in and sat on the beach totally exhausted and ashamed that I was not skilled enough to surf such challenging waves.

But a tiny part of me wondered if I had the WRONG SURFBOARD for these waves. “Yea, that’s it! My BOARD is the problem!”

As I was recovering on the beach, a local surfer asked to borrow my “faulty” surfboard. I said “Okay”. He went out there and ripped to perfection. He got tubed so deep. I was totally discouraged. I was the problem. Me! And NOT my board!

There is a life lesson here. My job, my mama, my boss, my wife, my country, my neighbor… may not be my real or biggest problem. It might just be me!…/a…/vincent/the_penitential_psalms.htm

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